Australia - Surfing

Nathan’s surfing story

Crash! "Those sound like good surfing waves", I said to myself.

"Grab your boards and head to the beach" Phil said. Phil is our instructor. I was so excited because we were going surfing. I was also scared because it looked hard.

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When we got to the beach Phil told us where to stand,  how to paddle and which waves to catch. After our dry land lesson, we hit the water. We got to the water and we put our leg strap on.. For the first three times we caught the wave using the push up position and I thought it was so cool how the boards glided. Once we had that mastered we tried standing up.


Once we tried to stand up we could ride the waves most of the way. Phil would always say "look at the coconuts" which means keep your head up.

He'd also say "keep your hands up!"

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But we did not catch any waves by ourselves. Phil would usually give us a push. Most of the times he pushed us we would catch the wave. The first time I stood up I did not think I was surfing and I rode the wave all the way back to the shore. But if you lean too far back on the board you would flip and if you lean too far forward you would nose dive. I learned that the hard way.  


After our hour was done because we liked surfing so much we booked another lesson. Phil asked "is Saturday good" we said "yep!"

We were so excited on Saturday we headed back to the beach.  Phil said, " We are going to practice turning and catching your own waves." "Yes, my two favorite things" I said to myself.  We used smaller boards because it easier to turn but it is a bit harder to stand up. Then we hit the water.



Within ten seconds, Phil saw a huge wave and he said “paddle!” Phil helped Jaxon while Quinn and I tried to catch it ourselves. We all caught the same wave and rode it all the way to the beach.  Some of the waves we made and some of them we did not. I hope our next surfing instructor will be as good as this one.   

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Quinn's surfing story

It was our second surfing lesson and it was early in the morning. My eyes were still heavy when we got to Nelson's beach. Nathan, on the other hand, had a big smile on his face and was showing excitement. I was excited too but still sleepy. I grabbed the surfboard and carried it to the beach. Phil, our instructor, gave us a quick refresher of what we learned the other day.


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"Remember to scoop the water when paddling" Phil said. "And to hold the board when going over a wave. Look at the coconuts when you’re standing which means to look at the top of the trees. You also need to know that your feet should be in the middle of the board when standing and get up fast. Remember surfing about looking cool.”

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 Phil came with us as we jumped over the waves. I jumped on my board and started to paddle. Phil told me to turn around and paddle hard. My heart rushed as I paddled super hard. Then I was riding on the wave. In a heartbeat I stood up. I made sure that my feet were in place and I started to turn myself left, and right. When I got to the sand I hopped off my board and went back out. This time Phil helped Jaxon get a wave. Nathan and I got it by ourselves. It was awesome to all get the same wave. Phil would help us once in awhile. I got about 10 waves when Phil said it was time to go. We said our goodbyes and drove off. Jaxon was the best out of all of us at surfing but he always forgot to paddle so he couldn't get the waves by himself.


Jaxon's surfing story

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"Beep" the car locked I was so excited. We were going surfing! I grabbed the surf board and I ran to the beach. We had to know what to do. Like, standing up right, to get down and to hold the board. I was so excited. I thought my heart was going to shoot out. We got out and I saw a wave.

Phil our instructor said " Paddle, paddle, JaxO.

He gave me a push and I took the wave.  I was so happy to stand on a surf board. I was going to cry. I was proud, mom, dad , Quinn, Nathan, and phill said I did so good. 

I love it. I saw my brothers they were very good at surfing. I think am a little better than them. Maybe I will become a professional surfer. 

"Later, dude"

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© VanKosh Family 2015