Quinn's surfing story 

It was our second surfing lesson and it was early in the morning. My eyes were still heavy when we got to Nelson's beach. Nathan, on the other hand, had a big smile on his face and was showing excitement. I was excited too but still sleepy. I grabbed the surfboard and carried it to the beach. Phil, our instructor, gave us a quick refresher of what we learned the other day.

 

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"Remember to scoop the water when paddling" Phil said. "And to hold the board when going over a wave. Look at the coconuts when you’re standing which means to look at the top of the trees. You also need to know that your feet should be in the middle of the board when standing and get up fast. Remember surfing about looking cool.”


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 Phil came with us as we jumped over the waves. I jumped on my board and started to paddle. Phil told me to turn around and paddle hard. My heart rushed as I paddled super hard. Then I was riding on the wave. In a heartbeat I stood up. I made sure that my feet were in place and I started to turn myself left, and right. When I got to the sand I hopped off my board and went back out. This time Phil helped Jaxon get a wave. Nathan and I got it by ourselves. It was awesome to all get the same wave. Phil would help us once in awhile. I got about 10 waves when Phil said it was time to go. We said our goodbyes and drove off. Jaxon was the best out of all of us at surfing but he always forgot to paddle so he couldn't get the waves by himself.

 

© VanKosh Family 2015