Nathan’s surfing story

Crash! "Those sound like good surfing waves", I said to myself.

"Grab your boards and head to the beach" Phil said. Phil is our instructor. I was so excited because we were going surfing. I was also scared because it looked hard.


DSC 6086

When we got to the beach Phil told us where to stand,  how to paddle and which waves to catch. After our dry land lesson, we hit the water. We got to the water and we put our leg strap on.. For the first three times we caught the wave using the push up position and I thought it was so cool how the boards glided. Once we had that mastered we tried standing up.

 

Once we tried to stand up we could ride the waves most of the way. Phil would always say "look at the coconuts" which means keep your head up.

He'd also say "keep your hands up!"

DSC 6099

 

But we did not catch any waves by ourselves. Phil would usually give us a push. Most of the times he pushed us we would catch the wave. The first time I stood up I did not think I was surfing and I rode the wave all the way back to the shore. But if you lean too far back on the board you would flip and if you lean too far forward you would nose dive. I learned that the hard way.  

 

After our hour was done because we liked surfing so much we booked another lesson. Phil asked "is Saturday good" we said "yep!"

We were so excited on Saturday we headed back to the beach.  Phil said, " We are going to practice turning and catching your own waves." "Yes, my two favorite things" I said to myself.  We used smaller boards because it easier to turn but it is a bit harder to stand up. Then we hit the water.

DSC_6133

 

Within ten seconds, Phil saw a huge wave and he said “paddle!” Phil helped Jaxon while Quinn and I tried to catch it ourselves. We all caught the same wave and rode it all the way to the beach.  Some of the waves we made and some of them we did not. I hope our next surfing instructor will be as good as this one.   

DSC 6294
© VanKosh Family 2015